Sewing is 20% inspiration and 80% math. And that math starts with one thing: Your Measurements.
If your measurements are wrong, your garment will be wrong. Period.
Many sewists dread the tape measure. We tend to pull the tape too tight (vanity measuring) or measure in the wrong spot. Here is the honest, 3-minute guide to getting the numbers you need for a perfect fit.
The Golden Rules
- Wear the Right Undergarments: Do not measure over a sports bra if you plan to wear a push-up bra with the dress. Wear the lingerie you intend to wear with the final garment.
- Stand Natural: Don’t suck in your stomach. Don’t stand up straighter than usual. Unless you plan to hold your breath for the entire time you wear the dress, measure your body in its relaxed state.
- Use a Mirror: Ensure the tape measure is parallel to the floor. If it droops in the back, your measurement will be too big.
The 3 Measurements That Matter Most
1. The High Bust (The Secret Weapon)
Most commercial patterns tell you to measure your Full Bust (the widest part). But at Fair Fit Studio, we prioritize the High Bust—the circumference directly under your armpits, above the breast tissue.
- Why: This measurement determines your Zone 1 (Shoulders and Frame). If you fit your shoulders first, the rest can be adjusted.
2. The Natural Waist
This is not where your jeans sit. This is the narrowest part of your torso, usually an inch or two above your belly button.
- The Trick: Tie a piece of elastic around your middle and wiggle around. The elastic will naturally roll to your narrowest point. That is your waist.
3. The Full Hip
This is the widest part of your lower body.
- The Mistake: Many people measure at the hip bone. But for most women, the widest part is actually lower, across the seat/bum. Measure the widest circumference, regardless of where it falls vertically.
Got Your Numbers? Now Ignore the Size Chart.
Once you have these numbers, do not panic if they put you in a “Size 18” when you usually buy a “Size 12.” Sewing pattern sizes are arbitrary historical data. They are not a judgment on your worth.
In the Fair Fit Method, we use these numbers to create a custom “Block” that fits your unique topography—bumps, curves, and all.
Stop trying to fit the pattern. Start making the pattern fit you. Learn more about our logical fitting method here.
Signature course · $150
Drape and draft a skirt that fits you
The Fair Fit Skirt course takes you from setting up your dress form and draping a skirt band to an A-line, a pencil and a pleated variation, using the wearable check-fit method that saves your good fabric.
See the Fair Fit Skirt Not sure where to start? Find your starting point